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Thanks for traveling with us!

Some Final Thoughts

I apologize that it has taken me a couple of days to get these final thoughts recorded on the blog, and I hope any of you following this have a chance to see these last postings. We all got home, safe and sound, a little tired and still congested from the bad air of Quito but glad we had the opportunity to be present with the people we are serving in this part of the world. Too, we were proud to be St. Mark's representatives in this mission. We get to see the smiles, hear the stories, get the thanks for all of the work all of you make possible. Without all of you, very little of this ministry would be possible. The priest on Saturday was right, it is the people of "San Marco," by the grace of God, who make a lot of things possible. In the cab on the way to the airport, our friend Washington made a point to tell us how much he respects the people of St. Mark. We care, we give hope to people that no one else, not even their own government, care about.

We got back to St. Mark from Reagan Airport around 12:45 Sunday afternoon, soon enough to see the last people leaving from the last liturgy of the day, and soon enough for me to catch up with my friend, Pastor Gary Sandberg, who had been the preacher in my stead for the morning. In many ways, our conversation summed up the experience of the week. Pastor Sandberg told me of a statistic he had recently come across that said Christian communities in the United States had contributed nearly $3 billion (yes, billion) to Haiti over the past 20 years, and Haiti is still a pit. I said, very quickly, that I think that I understand why. Everyone sends some money, a box of medicine, a few kids to work on a house or two, some coloring books for the little kids to Haiti. It makes us feel good. It makes us feel like we're doing something, but really we aren't doing anything but dumping resources down a hole. Change only happens when you stick with a place over the long haul. All of the people sending money and goods to Haiti want to do good things, but we do something and we're done with that. We move on to something else. Nothing permanent sticks.

We have been in Quito, Ecuador for a number of years (about 6) now. The Goffs have been there nearly 10 years now. It has taken us this long to see the things we are starting to see now. It is a long, long road to which we still can't see the end, probably because there is no end. As Washington and the parish priest said, no one cares except for us. If we stepped away now, all of the work we have invested would probably fizzle away within 18 months. This isn't to say that we are indispensable, only that there is no one to take our place if we pull out. It takes years to build the relationships necessary for the ministry we see now to begin to take hold. You all are to be commended for your willingness to "hang in" with these families, these kids in a place we hardly knew of before this all started. The difference between Haiti and the kids and families at the Refugio isn't money, it's your willingness to support and pray for these kids month after month, year after year.

Peace to you from the St. Mark Pilgrims

Confirmations and Celebrations

Saturday, October 30 brought us to one of the principal reasons we came to Ecuador at this time. At the noonday liturgy, two young people from the Refugio would be confirmed, seven would be baptized and seven would receive their first communion.

Earlier in the morning we had a chance to meet the local parish priest. This was a new priest from the one we had spent time with last year. To say that the change was dramatic would be an extreme understatement. The good padre's passion for the people of his community was palpable from the moment we began to speak with him. He was so excited to meet with us, but especially to let us know how important our involvement with the kids of the Refugio was to both them and to him personally. Our involvement helped him get the materials for his classes, something he couldn't provide with the small offerings of his parishoners. He was thrilled to meet the vicar, to meet a young man preparing for ministry. I was able to bring him the gift of one of my stoles (what he really wanted was my clerical shirt!), which he promised to wear at the day's liturgy. After this, he took us down a few blocks to see a building he is trying to refurbish for the community's worship. Maybe three times the size of the other church, he was excited that when the project was completed there would be room for far more people to worship together.

As the families gathered for worship, clearly everyone was excited. The girls looked like prom queens, the boys like little James Bonds ready for a party, and the little boys who were to be baptized were dressed in sailor suits, complete with hats. The liturgy included a sermon that was notable for two reasons. First, the priest reminded the parents of the tremendous gifts they had in their children, and their need to treasure them. And, he reminded them of the tremendous gift of the people of "San Marco" who stood with them, even when no one else would. As the young people who were baptized came forward, he placed the end of the stole we had brought him on their heads as he prayed the prayer of blessing for them.

What is interesting is how certain customs seem to cut across cultural lines. Afterward, families were anxious to take pictures, to have families in their pictures and to have us in the pictures with them. Afterward, we were invited to two parties. What was even more interesting is the strong feeling of de ja vu at these events. I've been to dozens of parties just like these. Families gather together, favorite foods are cooked, as much as a kitchen can contain, and there is cake. The family sits around and eats food and the little kids run around and play. Sound familiar? The most touching, though, was Monica. If you look down into last year's blog, you can see a picture of Monica's old home, a couple of rooms full of trash. Now, her mother has kicked the abusive man in their lives out of the house and was now trying as hard as she could to provide a better life for her children. None of us would want to live where they are now, but it is a million miles from where they were a year ago. There was a pile of food, something that couldn't have come easily for this lady, a cake, a decoration on the front door proclaiming that a baptism had happened and Monica, smiling in her white princess dress. If even just for a day, the people of St. Mark had dramatically changed the life of one family.

Standing on the Middle of the Earth

Today, we stood at the middle of the earth (not to be confused with Middle Earth). Our pal Washington picked us up at 9:00 and we headed north (Quito is in the Southern Hemisphere) to the Equator. We stopped by at some Inca ruins along the way. Clever people, those Incas. The village was built high on a hill and made of volcanic rock. It is estimated that the ruins date to around 1450. Not terribly old, as ruins go. Next, it was off to a volcano that blew its top about 200 years ago. The explosion cut the volcano in half (still really high) and filled in a valley (pretty low) with the rubble. There were also some people selling varrious crafts. The vicar tried, with limited success, to barter for some gifts.

Then, it was off to the middle of the earth, at least according to GPS satellites. Here, we saw all sorts of cool stuff. We both managed to balance an egg on a nail (the second time for me) and we have the documents to prove it! We also saw a couple of shurnken heads (it made me think of a couple of former parishoners...). What this has to do with the equator is really beyond me, but it is pretty cool in a sort of sick way.

After our fun with the egg, and the begining of a good sunburn. we were off to the middle of the world national park (hey, if you got the middle of the world in your country, I bet you'd build a park, too). Here, we not only got our picture taken holding up the world (thanks, Washington), but we also finished our gift shopping. It was a fairly clear day, so in the distance you could see the only mountain in the world with snow on the top that lies on the equator. Kilimanjaro has snow, but it is a bit south of the equator.

As an aside, if you ever have a chance to come to Equador, you simply must meet up with our pal Washington. He is absolutely the best guy. Not only a great driver, he's a superlative tour guide, clever and smart, too. Besides, he puts up with us jokers.

After this we shot back down the Quito (about 45 minutes0 to a cable car that took us up several thousand feet. We couldn't find a sign telling us how high we were, but we were well above the city and well above the 14,000 we were at yesterday. You could really feel the effects of the thin air, as well as stand in the clouds and look DOWN on an airplane coming into the city.

We left the cable car and zipped back the the Refugio to bid farewell to many of the kids and the ladies who work there. All-in-all, it is sad to say goodby to them. Everyone is anxious for our next return. Too, we left our buzillion pens and pencis behind to do lots and lots of schoolwork,

As we left the Refugio, we stopped by the home of Adriano. Adriano is kind of a wild child, but a great kid. he has 4 other brothers and sisters. His older brother has severe health problems, and the man living at the house only stops by to sleep and beat the mother. We left some groceries behind to help them out a bit.

We probably won't have a chance to post tomorrow. Tomorrow, we head on over to the church for a 12:00 liturgy (1:00 your time) celebrating confirmations and baptisms. It should be a great day. Afterward, we have been invited over to one of the children's (Monica's) home for and after-Baptism celebration. Then, it is waiting around for our plane to leave at 11:05 pm. If I don't get a chance, I'll wrap up with a last post once I'm back in the United States.

If we don't speak again, a blessed Reformation Day to all of you!

Peace to all of you from the sunburned pilgrims

Back in Quito

We are really glad to be back in Quito. There are lots of good things to be done in Santo Domingo, plus it was good to see our well. But when you have a guy with a flack jacket and a shotgun in the lobby of your hotel, you really do start to wonder if this is a good thing or a bad thing... I've decided that Quito really is part of western civilization. Maybe not New York or London, but definitely western civilization.

At any rate, today was a tour de force with our old pals. Our first stop was to Guadilaria. This site is essentially a preschool/daycare. Pretty well run and staffed, St. Mark's involvement with them is essentially coloring books, toothbrushes, construction paper and pictures from our preschool kids to them. Nice ladies who work really hard and care about their kids round out this place. There are some sad stories mixed into this place and the people are pretty poor, but they are pretty established and don't need a whole lot from us.

Our second stop was to Alyus. This place used to be filled primarily with indigineous preschoolers. The parents were extremely involved. Our preschool gave them $1,500 a couple of years ago, with which they essentially remade their facility. Great people. Things have changed dramatically over the past year. Most of the indigineous people have left, chased back into the hills by some government policies. The government has since demanded that the facility accomodate infants, something they never really did before. The government provided cribs, and then failed the facility for having sub-standard cribs. It can be a really crazy place down here. No one will give them the money for cribs and the requisite rugs they need. 4 women are struggling mightily to serve 35 children, all under the age of 4. Unless they pass an inspection on December 15, they could very well be shut down at that time. Pretty desperate situation.

We then went a bit further up the mountain to a place called Samiegas. It's at about 14,000 feet. You know what? It's kinda chilly at 14,000 feet. The situation with them is similar to that with Guadilaria. They are supported primarily by the American university in downtown Quito. Pretty nice facility. Nice people. Really high up the mountain.

As an aside, we're in the season around a time in Ecuador known as the Day of the Dead (good Catholics in America call this All Souls Day), November 2. It's a big festival down here including a special bread shaped like a baby and filled with jam. I find it a bit dry, myself. There is also a special drink - a heavy fruit juice with flour mixed into it. Sometimes you mix extra stewed fruit into the drink. Everyone is pretty gaga over it down here. Me, it makes me want to yak! I know, I know, it is really me, not them, and I admit that I suppose if I grew up with the stuff I'd probably like it, but I didn't and I don't. I try to choke down and much as I can without looking too green, but when you've been offered your third cup of the day, you're glad you won't see the stuff for quite a while. Give it a try and see what you think: pour some orange juice, grape juice, or any other heavy juice concentrate in a pan, warm it up and dump some four in it. Now drink it. What do you think???

After this, we went to visit the nearby home of a family that has fallen on some hard times. The girl has developed epilepsy (it seems to be a common affliction down here) which caused the father to throw them out of the house. There's a lot of superstition that surrounds the disease down here. Consequently, things are hard for them. A member of St. Mark is helping them out a bit. Plus, we took them a few groceries to try to help out a bit.

Then, it was off to the Refugio, where we were greeted by good friends, young and old. Kids get big over a whole year. The ones who were going to talk on Skype to the people back home in Yorktown were really excited. They were going to meet their "godparents."

As we left, we stopped by to see two really good friends, Jose Louis and Miriam. They recently had a baby and are really really struggling. They were excited and surprised to see us, plus we had a chance to take them some groceries, something they could desperately use.

We ended the day with dinner at, get this, and Italian restaurant! How about that. We travel 4,000 miles to eat at the Olive Garden!

Right now, the Vicar is bagging up all those pencils and pens you sent for the kids at the Refugio while I type on this blog. He's a real trooper! Too, his Spanish has gotten pretty good. Mine is still pretty bad (really, nonexistent). At least there is next year...

Tomorrow, it is off to the middle of the earth!

The Intrepid Pilgrims

Another day, another community from one of the rings of the Inferno

After breakfast, we set out to see the other two communities the Foundation is working with. The condition in which we find these people is completely unimaginable. I suppose that the slums of Rio or Calcutta or Cairo can rival what we see today, but only in size. Your imagination really can't fill it what we see today. No, it really can't. The first group we meet is compsed of indigenous people and drug addicts (we don't see the addicts). They are unwanted by the neighboring communities and under the constant threat of being bulldozed. (Frankly, I'm still trying to figure out if this would be as bad as it sounds, except that the people would be driven into the street, plus the injustice of the act.) No one wants them. Their ground is extremely polluted because they started digging latrines next to holes for wells, not realizing the problem with this. Now,scattered through the whole community over a number of years, the whole area is unfit for clean water wells. They then tried to go up the hill to get water, but the neighboring communities started dumping garbage up the hill to prevent this (not to mention the dead bodies that seem to collect up the hill - 7 were found up there earlier this week.) Now, their only choice is to steal water from a cistern for a nearby slaughter house. They haven't given up on digging a well nearby for a cistern system that would come into the community, but they have no money for this.

Adjacent to this community is another that while it looks as bad is at least accepted by the surrounding communities and has access to clean water. Clean water is one of the essential foundations for a better life for these people. Clean water is the key to better sanitation and better health. Dirty water leads to a long list of health maladies, from assorted parasites, bloated digestion tracts, all sorts of disease, disfiguring skin diseases and so forth, not to mention head lice and general stink.

After we leave, we have a chance for lunch and then we leave Santo Domingo. We get to ride back up the hills (mountains) we came down. It's not quite as exciting being on the mountain-side of the road as it is being on the drop-off side. We were all glad to see Quito. The Refugio is downright civilized compared to where we have been!

Peace to all of you from the intrepid pilgrims.

Another Community

After bidding farewell to our friends at La Isla, we set out to visit one of the other communities the Foundation is working with. This one is much larger, maybe around 5,000 people. They are situated on a garbage dump that contains medical waste. The ground is so contaminated that they cannot build a well like the one at La Isla. The smell of sewage coming off of the adjacent river is almost overpowering. The community leaders met us and walked around the community to tell us of their challenges and their hopes. They are an extremely happy, laughing group of people. They told us all they have is their laughs and their faith in God. They are VERY religious. In all of these places, you would simply not believe the sort of things people call a home. Two inches below your feet are several feet of piled up medical garbage. Here, a girl is usually pregnant by 14 (and 11 is not uncommon) and with another man by 16. Violent crime is a normal occurrence with several people killed every day (we are assured that we are safe, since we are with the community leaders).

Getting clean water into this community is more complicated. A piece of vacant land outside of the community needs to be purchased where a well can be dug and cisterns set up. The water then needs piped into the community. Even if they were to dig 2,000 feet, they would not find clean water anywhere in their community. Interestingly, they have not given up hope of this becoming a reality some day.

After we were given some bananas we headed to the hotel for the evening. It was a day filled with great emotional swings.

Our Well

After a bit of lunch we set out for the community of La Isla to see our well. First, a bit of background. La Isla is one of several communities in and around Santo Domingo occupied by what are essentially squatters, migrants and migrant drug dealers who had arrived in hope of finding work. Most of them ended up trying to live in the only places made available to them, essentially the vacant land on top of garbage dumps. The local politicians would essentially cover the dumps with a couple of inches of dirt and then "give" the land to the community in exchange for votes. After the election, no one did anything to help these people in what is essentially an unlivable situation. One of the primary problems in all of these communities is the lack of clean water.

The Foundation has been working with four of these communities for the past few years. Their goals are maternal health, anti-violence education, community organization and sanitation. La Isla, where our well is located, is one of these communities. When you come into La Isla, you can't miss the well. Not only is it the tallest structure in the community, it is also wrapped in a banner saying "Thanks to the People of St. Mark!" Being three stories, there is a classroom on the first floor, a "town hall" on the second and a "lookout" on the third with the cistern above this. Essentially, water is pumped out of a well and into a holding tank where it is chlorinated. It is then pumped into the cistern where it then flows by gravity into two smaller cisterns in the community (maybe 700 people).

Words really can't express the feelings of these people toward the people of St. Mark. It took the community president a while before he really could talk about the experience with us. He first told us about how everyone had given up on them and how no one would help them except the people of St. Mark. It was us who gave them hope for a better tomorrow by our gift to them. They were quick to tell us how everyone had to help, but the women did the most work, hauling the concrete (several showed us their biceps to prove their strength!). Everyone in the community pays $3 each month to use the well and to help with its maintenance. They then laid out a meal for us which included the best food these people probably saw in any number of months. As we got ready to leave, it is again impossible to write of the extreme emotions that these people expressed for the people of St. Mak. It is impossible to exaggerate these people's feelings for us and the outpouring of gratitude for what we helped them achieve.

Setting Out for Santo Domingo

Well, Tuesday morning arrived a bit earlier than we probably would have hoped. We met up with our pal Washington, had a bit of breakfast and went to see our friends at the "Foundation." The Foundation is the group that oversees the Refugio as well as the projects in Santo Domingo that we are going to go see. They also helped to coordinate our well project. After a fair amount of hugging and kissing (they were glad to see me again and to meet the Vicar) we all hopped in a truck and set off for Santo Domingo.

Now, Santo Domingo is about 3 1/2 hours southwest of Quito. To get there, you climb uphill to about 14,000 feet and then shoot down to about sea level. Most of the 3 1/2 hours are spent going downhill. Quite exciting, to say the least. The road was pretty good, but what made it really fun was the fact that much of the guardrail consisted of yellow caution tape strung between a couple of tires. Past the tape, it is a couple thousand feet straight down. Yes, you read that correctly, a couple of thousand feet! VERY exciting.

Once we got there we found out that Santo Domingo is basically a jungle climate - very hot and humid. Too, Santo Domingo is a city of about 300,000 with another 150,000 undocumented illegals (mostly Columbians: read drug dealers) I would describe Santo Domingo as the wild, wild west. You get a feeling of dumpy lawlessness. It made me learn to appreciate Quito far, far more than I had in the past. 

Sorry about the lack of pictures. I can't get an internet connection strong enough to get them uploaded into the blog ;-(
You'll have to come see them when we get home ;-)

We arrived!

We arrived in Quito around 10:20 pm local time (11:20 pm your time) and were met by Susette Goff and our good friend and driver Washington. We had set out from the Church around 8:00 am this morning. Thanks to Dan Landis for driving us up to Reagan National in Washington this morning. - If Dan tells you he's not susceptible to road rage, don't believe him ;-)

Our flights were smooth. We were at the airport early enough (thanks, Dan) to get bumped to an earlier flight. This just meant we sat in Atlanta longer than expected. We left for Quito a bit later as two people were on the manifest and didn't show up for the flight, so we had to wait until their baggage was unloaded.

We got through customs quickly, as the plane was only 1/3 full. After our bags were scanned, I had to open one, but the guard gave up when he saw the 9,462 pencils in there. Obviously, it was dark outside, but I did recognize some things. Washington was particularly pleased that I remembered Gringoland.

We head out for Santo Domingo and the wells tomorrow morning. There is no internet down there, so we won't write again until Wednesday. Hopefully, we'll have some pictures to share with you at that time!

Peace,
the intrepid pilgrims